From Brazil to the North Shore, Big Wave Surfer Raquel Heckert Finds Her Flow
Photo: Jesse Jennings
For Raquel Heckert, challenges are opportunities. Adversity makes you tough. Longing teaches patience and determination. The bigger the wave, the more powerful its potential to change your life.
Storm tracking, island hopping, and swell chasing around the globe are all part of the job description for Raquel, who’s built her career on charging big waves. The task demands unwavering grit that could easily create a hardened edge, but Raquel embodies a softer kind of strength: quiet, calm resolve rooted in faith and an open heart.
As a mainstay in elite contests and heavy lineups, Raquel has pushed hard to carve out space for women in big wave surfing. During opening week for the Eddie Aikau Big Wave Invitational and the Vans Pipe Masters, we spent a sunny layday together on Oahu’s Seven Mile Miracle discussing North Shore contests and how growing up in Brazil shaped her career.
What is your relationship to Pipeline?
Pipeline is a special place. I think when Pipeline is happening, the whole world stops to watch.
I have been dedicating quite some time out there the last eight years, always going out when there are good conditions, but it’s not easy because it’s one of the most crowded places ever. Sometimes I don’t even get a wave, or sometimes I just get one wave that’s not very good or doesn’t even barrel. You have to put in a lot of time.
It’s very competitive, especially being a woman. It’s difficult, but it’s a good opportunity to overcome your fears, step up out of your comfort zone, and try to get the best wave of your life.
I would love to make a big barrel from the second reef. That would be a dream come true. I hope that I can make that happen one day.
“When Pipeline is happening, the whole world stops to watch.”
Why is it important for female athletes to compete on the North Shore?
A few years ago, me, Keala [Kennelly], Bianca Valenti, and a bunch of girls from the North Shore went and gave our testimony to try to fight for more contests for women. I’m happy that people heard us and we are actually having contests and equal opportunities now.
“If you give [us] the same opportunities, we can prove what we are capable of.”
For so many years, [women did not have the chance] to compete at Pipe with just a few people. All these guys get better, but then the girls don’t have the same opportunity, so how are they gonna catch a wave to actually improve and build up their potential? If you give [us] the same opportunities, we can prove what we are capable of. We can inspire other generations and grow the sport. It’s a win for everybody.
What was it like growing up as a female surfer in Brazil?
There was a lot of sexism. People would look at you more because of how you looked, if you looked cute or whatever, and not really look at you as an athlete — as a surfer.
For many years in Brazil, we didn’t have any nationals for girls. That was hard for so many athletes’ lives. It was difficult to get sponsors, to have support, to have a coach, to have boards, to do my first trip. Everything was more difficult.
“For many years in Brazil, we didn’t have any nationals for girls. That was hard for so many athletes’ lives.”
There were many contests where the boys would [win] a brand new board and I would get a skirt that didn’t even fit me, or we wouldn’t get any trophy, or they would get a ticket to go somewhere and we would get something from a brand. We have so many stories of chasing the guys that organized the contest to include the girls in local [events]. The guy would even hide from us in the supermarket.
That made it hard for my career. I don’t have sponsors nowadays. Brazil is still growing in many aspects. Sometimes the sponsors are focusing more on one group of people that are already very famous, or whatever, so I think it’s harder for the girls. But that makes us tough and makes us overcome our limits even more.
“We have so many stories of chasing the guys that organized the contest to include the girls in local [events]. The guy would even hide from us in the supermarket.”
Who was Eddie Aikau?
Eddie Aikau was a lifeguard at Waimea Bay who saved over 500 people. He was a great big wave surfer, a charger, and he is a hero for Hawaiian culture because of his selfless love. He gave his life to save the lives of other people.
The [Eddie] contest is famous by the phrase “Eddie would go” because Eddie would go for it. He would give his life and do all he could. I think it’s a beautiful example of dedicating your life to others. That’s the real aloha.
What is your goal for this season’s Eddie?
It’s my third year being invited and the fourth year they’ve included women. It’s an honor and I feel super humbled to be part of one of the most important big wave contests in the world. My goal is to perform the best I can. I’ve been training and surfing big waves for eight or ten years, so I hope I can put everything into action.
“I feel super humbled to be part of one of the most important big wave contests in the world.”
How do you prepare for the contest?
We always get caught by surprise when they call the contest. We see a storm shaping, but it takes a few days to know that the size will be solid. The Eddie has to be perfect and huge.
I try to relax the best I can, eat well, and sleep a lot. We get a little anxious before the contest, so we gotta try to be still and have peace. I always pray and acknowledge that God has control.
