Love Letters to Waves: Gianyar


Lightening split the sky open and the crowd dissipated. Among the handful of surfers who remained was a local who appeared unfazed by the approaching storm. I took this as an auspicious sign. Only foolish Westerners are deterred by volcanic activity and bad weather. 

The sky and sea blackened. The air was electric. The wind vanished as fat raindrops scattered across the water’s glass surface. It was as eerie as it was beautiful.

Empty faces pitched up and exploded seamlessly across the reef. The peak was wide open. Did the people on the beach realize that the conditions had instantaneously transformed? They were preoccupied with lunch. 

I took off on the wave of my life, speeding down the racetrack and howling with adrenaline. Just as I kicked out, I heard a terrible crack: lightening struck the water just feet away from me. I’ve never paddled for shore faster. Safely on the sand, I allowed a smug satisfaction to wash over me. I’d been in the right place at the right time.